CONQUERING SAGADA FOR THE FIRST TIME
If you have no hiking experience (*slowly raises both hands*) but want to challenge yourself then Sagada might be a good place to start!
The moment you book those bus tickets means that you have to physically (and mentally) commit yourself to hours of walking under the scorching sun and/or heavy rain; climbing slippery rocks or trying to fit into small cave holes; and charging through cold waters in dark caves to get to the finish line. But, at the end of that hardship, you will feel rewarded with your accomplishment as you admire the view before you (then you realize that you have to go through the same thing to get back lol).
Sagada, as described by The Lonely Planet, is the closest thing the Philippines has to a Southeast Asian backpacker mecca. A small town located in the Cordillera mountains, it is known for its majestic sunrise and sunset views on top of mountain peaks and heart-racing cave connections. Although Sagada is known as a haven for thrill-seekers, it is also possible to find tranquility within its mountains.
How did we get there?
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| Male passengers and CODA staff helping one another to move a giant rock out of the way! |
My mom and I were chance passengers and since it was no longer peak season, we easily got a seat but this is method is certainly not recommended. It would be better if you called the bus line and booked a ticket in advance just so you don't waste your time waiting for an opening. We took the CODA Bus, which leaves at 9:00 PM, from HM Bus Terminal in Monte Piedad, Cubao to Sagada as recommended by my cousin who has frequently traveled there for work. The trip takes roughly around twelve hours with three to four bus stops along the way. CODA doesn't have online reservations so you will have to contact them but I recently discovered PinoyTravel, a website that allows you to book bus or ferry rides in the Philippines (friendly reminder: you have to book at least four days before the trip!). You can use that to book your ride to and from Sagada online. For CODA, the price per person is PHP 720.00 (one way).
Where did we stay?
My mom and I stayed at the Coffee Heritage House. It's a little far from town but you will surely fall in love with the place, as I have, and the staff are very welcoming plus the food is truly delicious! I've tasted every single dish from their menu but nothing beats their Adobo sa Kape and Danggit! And their coffee is also one of a kind! It doesn't take bitter and goes well with their food.
To get to CHH, you will have to ride a jeep to Bangaan (bang-nga-an). A jeep costs PHP 20.00 per person. They also have a schedule that you must follow to get there or else you'll find yourself walking to the hostel. The jeepneys from the town center start their trips at 8:00 AM and their last trip to Bangaan is around 5:00 PM. Some, at 3:00 PM. You can also hitch a ride if there are cars that will go to the same direction as the hostel but if none, it will cost you around PHP 500.00 to 700.00 if you are going to hire someone. If you are staying at the hotel and want to go to town, there is usually a jeep around 12:00 to 12:30 PM that will pass by the basketball court.
There are two ways to get to the hostel, one is a 15-20 minute walk but on cemented road (if you are going to use a private car, this is the road that you will use) and the other is going through the forest but will only take about 7-10 minutes. If you want to take the shorter route, just alight at the Bangaan basketball court near the church. Feel free to ask the locals because they know where CHH is and won't hesitate to assist you, should you need help. You can also ask the ladies in the tourist center near the basketball court for help (FYI, this is where you'll get a tour to Bomod-ok Falls as well. Shoutout to Miss Sati and their dog, Zip!)
Where did we go?
Like you, I also depended on other blogs and TripAdvisor to build our itinerary and Sagada is quite small so you'll probably see the same suggestions across the web. I highly recommend that you try visiting Bomod-ok Falls (3-4 hours total), Mt. Kiltepan (1-2 hours), Adventure Trail from St. Mary's Church to Twin Falls (4-5 hours) where you get to see Echo Valley, the hanging coffins, and Sagada Underground River; and lastly, Sugong Hanging Coffins and the Cave Connections - Lumiang and Sumaging (5-6 hours). Many people also suggest Lake Danum and Marlboro Country but we never got a chance to go there.
As for the CHH Coffee Farm tour, we were only lucky that we were given a chance to know the full history of the hostel and their coffee through the owners but, as of today, they are not offering tours on a regular basis. They do, however, offer guests a chance to experience planting and harvesting coffee. If you guys are coffee lovers and are interested in doing so, feel free to contact them here or visit the Coffee Science Center at the 45 Maalalahanin Street, Brgy. Teacher's Village, East Diliman, Quezon City.
What restaurants did we try in Sagada?
If you've seen our itinerary, you would know that we were mostly eating at the hostel or at Bana's. So, I'll probably have to write this down as one of my next post goals when I return. Like I've said, the danggit and adobo at Coffee Heritage House is heavenly—shoutout to Chef Chad!—and you'll probably want to try their Etag Carbonara. As for Bana's Cafe, what can I say? They're a perfect go-to place to have breakfast! They also offer civet coffee so if you want to try that out, I suggest that you try it at Bana's but be warned though, the coffee is more expensive that what you ate for breakfast! lol.
Another reason why we never got to try other restaurants is because some of the recommended ones such as Yogurt House and Strawberry Yogurt House were closed. We also couldn't try the Log Cabin because the timing was always off. We did, however, got to eat at the Lemon Pie House and Gaia Cafe. I wasn't quite thrilled with Lemon Pie House because they only had two food items on the menu at the time—chicken adobo and chicken curry—and I found the lemon pie wasn't special at all.
Gaia Cafe was another story. We went there after spelunking with our tour guide to grab a bite before we head back to town and many people raved about the view (and because 'That Thing Called Tadhana' was filmed here) but sadly, since it started to rain, the clouds were starting to descend and cover the rice terraces from sight. It wasn't completely a waste because you can slowly see the clouds descending from the mountains. And because of the cold weather, pair your meal with a delicious cup of hot chocolate! What I love about this cafe is that the ingredients they use are organic and locally grown which befits the name 'Gaia'. Interesting enough, if you like to drink beer, you might want to try the locally made beers that are infused with coffee, banana, etc. that they sell for around PHP 110.00 to 140.00 per bottle.
Another reason why we never got to try other restaurants is because some of the recommended ones such as Yogurt House and Strawberry Yogurt House were closed. We also couldn't try the Log Cabin because the timing was always off. We did, however, got to eat at the Lemon Pie House and Gaia Cafe. I wasn't quite thrilled with Lemon Pie House because they only had two food items on the menu at the time—chicken adobo and chicken curry—and I found the lemon pie wasn't special at all.
Gaia Cafe was another story. We went there after spelunking with our tour guide to grab a bite before we head back to town and many people raved about the view (and because 'That Thing Called Tadhana' was filmed here) but sadly, since it started to rain, the clouds were starting to descend and cover the rice terraces from sight. It wasn't completely a waste because you can slowly see the clouds descending from the mountains. And because of the cold weather, pair your meal with a delicious cup of hot chocolate! What I love about this cafe is that the ingredients they use are organic and locally grown which befits the name 'Gaia'. Interesting enough, if you like to drink beer, you might want to try the locally made beers that are infused with coffee, banana, etc. that they sell for around PHP 110.00 to 140.00 per bottle.
When is the best time to go to Sagada?
Many people will suggest that summer/dry season (around February/March to April) would be the best time to visit Sagada because you don't have to worry about the water rising in the caves, the rocks getting slippery, and there are tons of summer activities such as canyoneering or canoeing that you can try. But, I personally prefer May because the wind and the water is colder and it's not as hot during the day. Do expect heavy rains around 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon!
Tips and reminders:
- First and foremost, if you plan to go to Sagada, prepare your heart. Not metaphorically speaking but literally... go do some cardio activities or head to the gym a week or two before. Trust me, you will appreciate this. (unless you are used to it then skip this number and ignore me lol.)
- Once you get there, be sure to pay the tourism fee which costs PHP 35.00 per person. This is a must for every tourist and you must have the receipt with you at all times, especially when you're going for a tour!
- You must always have a tour guide with you. You can't enter the caves by yourself or go around Echo Valley without a guide.
- If you didn't book online, be sure to have a seat/s reserved for you and your companions for the bus ride going home. Seats will quickly fill up, especially during the summer, so be sure to drop by the bus line's office and book it immediately before you leave the town.
- Before our trip, I bought a waterproof iPad case at Japan Home Center for around PHP 88.00 and used it as an emergency kit. I placed my IDs, extra money, food, a spare flashlight and whistle just in case something happens to me (God forbid) during one of the tours. We may never know but it's better to be safe than sorry!
- If you plan to go to Sagada during the rainy season, make sure to bring a raincoat.
- This is still the Philippines so make sure you buy a bug repellant or use citronella oil just in case a mosquito decides to pay you a visit. I recommend that you buy the ones from Human Nature. Cheap but very effective! And it's made with natural ingredients!
- Use a waterproof bag. This will save you the headache during the rainy season and whenever you're touring around because you'll pass by rivers, caves, etc.
- If you don't have a waterproof bag, you can always use ziplocks! My bag isn't waterproof so I placed all of my stuff in ziplocks and this came in handy during our spelunking activities.
- Since we are in the spelunking topic, may I remind you that if you plan to try the Lumiang-Sumaging cave connections: prepare yourselves mentally! I literally was on the verge of crying because there are three drops and you'll have to go through slippery rocks, small cave holes, cold water, climb rocks without a harness or a rope (yes, you will basically just use your hands and feet and find your way up those slippery rocks)... and many more. And also, wear something comfortable (like leggings! Don't imitate me and wear swimming shorts because you'll get scratches all over your legs).
- As for the shoes, it's not really recommended to wear any when you're spelunking but do invest on a good quality pair of shoes for your hiking trip!
- Last but not the least, enjoy and record your experiences. You might find it exhausting but at the end of the day, you will realize that you might not have the chance to do it again so have fun while you're at it!
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Kamsahamnida! Have a great day!